Glazing Old Single Pane Windows part two

By HHr Staff ~ Colbyt

This article, part 2 explains the removal of the old glazing material.

Removing the old glazing:
For this step which you will repeat often, you will need your pliers and utility knife. Find a spot where the glazing has fallen out, position the blade depth so that it is a little deeper than the sash to glass measurement, then you are going to break off the point of the blade so that the depth is a little less than the sash to glass depth. The blade must be in one of the locked positions. How much you break off doesn't matter. The less you have to break the better the chance it will break clean. What you want here is a situation where the blade can not hit the glass when the body of the knife is resting on the wood.

Now you remove all the glazing that is ready to come out. The utility knife is used to break any remaining seal between the wood and the putty. The putty knife and razor blade scraper are used to break any seal between the glass and the old putty. The dust brush is used to "sweep" the area. You do this until you are ready to quit or break for lunch. Trust me two or three hours is about all you want to do this at one time.

What do I do with those push points?
If you pulled any out or the glass seems loose in the frame you place a few of them to hold the glass in place. They glazing compound sheds water and provides a paint able surface. The glaziers' points are really what hold the glass in place.

Sealing the wood, the key to making it work:
Before you break for lunch or quit for the day you need to seal the wood that you have exposed with the putty removal. A double shot or 2 fingers of the boiled linseed oil in a small container will seal three six over six windows. Just brush it on the bare wood and any remaining old putty. It is okay to spread it on any bare wood on the adjacent sash. Boiled linseed is just an oil based primer coat with very quick drying properties.

You are sure to get some drips and runs on the glass. Don't worry about it they are easily removed with the razor blade scraper if you do it within 48 hours of the initial application.

On a nice warm day by the time you get back from lunch (about an hour) the linseed oil will be dry and you are ready to glaze the prepared surfaces. It can still be tacky but it should not be wet. Slightly tacky actually seems to work best. On the hard weather side of the house a second application may be desirable. Your goal here is for a completely sealed piece of wood. Note that a second application will take 2-3 times as long to dry as a first coat did. The time spent in getting this sealing step right will be rewarded with ease of application and durability of the finished glazing.

Part 1 covers tools and preparation.
Part 3 explains the glazing process.


More in Windows and Doors:

Glazing Old Single Pane Windows part one.........Read More
Glazing Old Single Pane Windows part three.........Read More


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