This article, part 1 covers tools and preparation.
This can be a bear of a job when you don't have the right tools, materials or any experience. With the right tools and materials and just a little practice you can master this almost lost glazing process. You don't need any fancy tools or gimmicky gadgets What you do need is boiled linseed oil, fresh putty, the proper tools, the right moves, and a little practice.
A well made all metal utility knife with a retractable blade
A refill package or two of blades for the utility knife
A single edge razor blade scraper and a few blade refills
A bent glazing or putty knife (sold at paint stores)
A stiff putty knife or a painter's 5-1 tool
A dust brush for sweeping the dust off the sashes
A few small, rinsed soup cans or plastic cups
A pair of pliers
Small container of boiled linseed oil; a gallon will last way too long.
Several throw-away 1" paint brushes or 1 and some mineral spirits
Dap-33 Glazing compound; a quart does 4-10 windows depending on the style.
Push in glazier's points
Nothing against the BORG here but I strongly suggest you buy your DAP brand glazing compound from a paint store or other place that sells a lot of it. Old stuff degrades in the can and becomes difficult if not impossible to work with. You can buy a "bent" glazing ( putty) knife at the same time. They are available in 1/2" and 3/4" widths. I own and use both depending on the style of window. The smaller one uses less putty but is harder on your fingers.
Some articles say to use a primer in lieu of the boiled linseed oil. I have tried it with both oil and latex based primers and the linseed oil is in my opinion a superior product. It just grabs and holds the glazing compound much better.
If you are going to try to remove and glaze in the same day, set your glazing compound in the sun when you start work with the lid on the ground. Lid side down is also the preferred short term storage method. This keeps the "oils" where you can work them back into the product.
The first thing to realize is that no matter how careful you are you will break or crack at least one glass pane before you finish. Just accept that and move on. Glass is cheap. The second thing is that if the old putty requires more than a moderate force to remove; it does not need to be removed. Keep that second statement in mind and you may make a liar out of me about the first statement.
Part 2 explains the removal of the old glazing material.
Part 3 explains the glazing process.